Recoil Rebel Squonker Review
Recoil Rebel Converted to a Squonker.
It was a series of unfortunate events that lead me to the discovery that I really like the Recoil Rebel RDA set up as a squonker. I went to my local vape shop and bought a Recoil atomizer and a Recoil Rebel squonk pin. See the trouble there? I did too when I got home. This pin doesn't fit that atomizer. No problem, I went straight back to Doc's Vape Escape in Cookeville Tn and they swapped out my Recoil for a Recoil Rebel. Now I was ready to start squonking with this bad boy... as soon as I got it transferred over to a squonking atomizer and that too turned out to be a bit of a pain in the ass. Just a bit though, nothing crazy. I'm going to take you through the process in pictures here and then tell you what I think of the atomizer.
If you're into squonking, than chances are you either have one of those older drippers that were designed for squonking, or one of these newer drippers that are easily converted back and forth between squonker and dripper by simply changing out the positive screw in the 510 connector. This ain't either one of those animals. It comes as a dripper, so the squonk conversion kit is sold separately, and instead of simply swapping out screws, you need to replace the positive post as well. This is a little more difficult than it sounds, so allow me to run you through the process with some images to guide you.
What you need for the job;
You're going to need a flathead precision screwdriver, and a T5 hex bit. Furthermore, it would serve you well to have a precision screwdriver set where you can really fine tune your flathead because the negative post set screw is a pain to get out without the proper size flathead. And of course, you will need a Recoil Rebel RDA deck, not a Recoil RDA deck. Got it?
Step 1:
See how my screw is a little roughed up? It's a very shallow flat screw, so you want the perfect sized head to get in there. It will still be a little rough, but this has to come out because the negative post overhangs the positive post and there isn't enough clearance to get it out of there without removing the negative post.
Step 2;
In addition to the screw holding the negative post in place, it is also press fit into the deck. Just remove one of the screws from the post holes and you can get a precision screwdriver in through the hole and you should be able to wrench it out of there pretty easily. Don't use pliers unless you don't care if you scuff up the finish on your post.
Step 3;
Now comes the standard removal of the positive screw from the 510 connector.
Step 4;
Now you need to pull your positive post out and remove the insulator from the bottom of it and from the top of the positive screw. This, in my opinion, is absurd. For the price of the atomizer and the squonk adapter, would it kill you guys to include an insulator on the squonking positive post? Since the manufacturer couldn't be bothered with this inconvenience, it's up to you to be careful when removing the insulator so you don't snap the damn thing.
Step 5;
I only included this step (which is pretty self explanatory) because there is a piece of information you need here. Remember, you needed to remove the negative post because there is very little clearance between the two posts. For this reason, it is very important that you have the insulator on the base of the post properly seated onto the post. You will hear a "snap" when it is on there right. Push it until you hear that snap, because that is the post going in. If you don't hear that, your positive post will sit a little higher than it should and that will be bad news. Once you have the insulator on there properly, press it back into the deck where it is in there firmly.
Step 6;
It's a T5 bit, folks. You will need one. If you have the UD Coiler where the tips are stored inside the coiler, that hex key will work on this screw. Just make sure that you have a tool that will work. Don't just finger tighten it. If that screw backs out and the post raises (which it will, especially if you have a spring loaded 510 pushing up on that loose screw) it will hit the negative post and you will have a dead short on your hands. Make sure you tighten it down firmly.
Step 7;
You're going to have to fiddle with that post a little bit to get it set back in there properly, but again you won't need pliers or anything. You can push it back in there by wiggling it back and forth with your fingers. Once it is set in place, replace and tighten the set screw underneath the deck.
And just like that, you are ready to squonk. Notice though, I said it's a pain in the ass, not that it is particularly hard. Just watch what you are doing and make sure everything is properly in place as you go and you will be fine. Now onto my thoughts on this atomizer.
If you look at the bottom picture, my O rings are a little chewed up. This is because the Recoil Rebel comes with two caps and my secondary (snakebite) cap was bent. Now the shop that I purchased it from wanted me to bring it back so they could warranty it, but I already had it set up as a squonker and they didn't have another black one in stock, so I decided to just bend it into shape the best I could and live with it. -1 for quality control over at Recoil.
That being said, I love my little bent up snakebite cap. It's shorter than the standard one and gives me better flavor, plus the airflow is perfect for my purposes. The other top cap has adjustable airflow, so you can pretty much set it wherever you need it and it is good too. +1 for having 2 caps, and +1 for offering air flow control on this version.
I also like the build deck on this one. I prefer the standard velocity style deck, but the deck on the Rebel is an improvement on the deck from the Recoil IMO. Additionally, they have included and ultem ring that goes over your wicks to prevent leakage. It does an exceptional job at holding excess liquid under the wicks. +1 for improving the build deck, and +1 for the innovative ultem ring.
To be fair, I honestly don't think the squonk kit should be sold as an after market adapter on this one. With the design of the deck, it should be offered either as a squonker or a standard dripper. I'm concerned about careless or inexperienced vapers trying to tackle this chore and doing it wrong to where the positive post might contact the negative post and cause a short. However, if you take your time and do it carefully you can set it up right to where you have a damn nice little squonking atomizer.
Final Thoughts:
The Recoil Rebel is a top notch squonking atomizer. It is a very nice and warm, flavorful vape with the snakebite cap. The other cap offers you unlimited cloud potential and a wide variety of airflow configurations. It's a little difficult to setup for squonking, but well worth the effort. I highly recommend this one to my fellow squonkers.